Thinking About Warmer Days

Christensen Fish

 

That feeling of bracing yourself to slide into that smelly, cold, damp wetty is getting old. It’s got me thinking owarmer days. Days when you can finish work with enough time to throw on the boardshorts to bask in the ocean’s goodness; days when you have to bolt across the sand like it's lava; and when the rays are boiling off the beach carpark.

It’s also got me starting to think about what on earth am I going to ride this summer. With so much in the tech vs tradition debate, is it worth looking at a retro twin… or something drenched in carbon? Is the old faithful looking a little tired on the eyes? Do I want to pin the ears back and go fast and straight, or try find something that's a little more peckish for the pocket? These are the questions I have been trying to answer in order to make the 2 feet of NE wind swell enticing for weeks on end. 

The key about getting the summer quiver sorted is knowing when to ride what board – if any boards cross over, you should pick your favourite of the two and trade the other for something that serves a different purpose. Although, deciphering what board fits where is easier said than done. Choosing a board ultimately comes down to: 

  1. Waves (size/shape/length) of course
  2. Mood (angry vs hungover) 
  3. Style (Dane vs Frederico)  
  4. Overall atmosphere (80 of your best mates vs shark bait)   

And after a couple weeks (or months) of deliberation, here is what I’m running with: 

1. Chris Christensen - Fish 

5’7 x 20 ¾ x 2 ½  (about 35-36L) 

This is a surfboard that’s been carried through the past couple Summers/Winters/everything in between. There is just something about it. It’s the fastest board I have every ridden, yet still holds a rail. It’s unbelievable the satisfaction you can gain from going super-fast in a straight line. Reminds me of the feeling my old dog used to get sticking its head out the car window with its ears flapping through the wind (rip Mushy). The Fish is the kind of board that makes the guy riding his 6’1 x 18 x 2 Proton jealous when you’re tripling his wave count. This thing covers 2 feet runners to 4 feet of lovely point break + paddles like a machine. It’s best associated with the hungover/lazy mood, and will make you draw lines that is impossible to do on everyday boards. This is one I don’t let my mates ride.Fish

2. Channel Islands Rocket Wide – EPS SpineTek 

5’9 x 19 ¾ x 2 9/16 – 31.8L 

A little different from the CC Fish… the Rocket Wide is what I’m going to ride when I want to surf “properly” in smaller waves. Even though it has its roots in the fishy family, it sure doesn’t surf like one. With the SpineTek construction, it loads off the bottom to give you more to work with when the waves aren’t giving you much. This is what you grab to fill the position of the small wave, aggressive surf that you have to unload after a long day of stitch ups. Versatility rate for summer is 4.4/5… pretty much surfable in 9/10 sessions – only won’t work if a) it’s not breaking b) there is a big ugly gross Southerly, in which case just go to the movies instead.  

3. Town & Country - Flux

6’0 x 19 x 2 ½ - 29.45L  

The Flux is a shortboard that is just a little bit short of being a shortboard. Wide point forward + medium/low rails + refined nose and tail = a nice good time. It’s also got a double concave through the bottom to make rail to rail transition feel rather squirty. I’d say it fits the mood when you need to surf properly and aggressive when you’re actually rather lethargic. That wide point forward also helps paddling, which is a necessity in the summer slop. It’s going to fit into the average and slightly above average conditions.  

Flux

4. Tokoro – 5+

 6’1 x 19 ¼ x 2 ½ 30L 

This is a carry-through from Winter. I’m taking it into the warmer months just in case something excellent happens and we get some actual waves. This needs at least 4 feet to come alive, but… oh my when she does. There is more bite off the back foot than a lion gnawing into the innocent neck of a gazel. It might not see as much of the water as I’d like it too this summer, but after riding it a lot through Winter, there is no way I can let this one go. A lot of curve means you have to be angry. There is something so unbelievably satisfying about doing a proper bottom turn on an open face with a long rail line. It’s good for the soul.  

5+

These are the 4 boards I’ll be counting on for when sweat pits are more frequent (and the weather is warmer). If you have any queries on what could brighten your summer, shoot an email through to saxon@onboardindustries.com.au or follow these links for a little more insight. 

  

Chris Christensen - Fish 

Channel Islands - Rocket Wide EPS SpineTek 

Town & Country - Flux 

Tokoro - 5+ 

  

By Saxon Reed